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If you just recited 'The Sign of the Cross' prayer from memory, then you must have been a cute little church student who is now well-versed in symbolism.

Then again, it is without a doubt a prevalent symbol that bombards us here in the West - the Holy Cross. Ranging from both the historical and cultural significance of crosses to their deep-rooted symbolism in various religions and belief systems crosses hold a very special place in our collective psyche.

The Holy Cross is so important in Western culture that many people might recognize it, even if they do not necessarily know what it symbolically represents. Interestingly, the meaning of the cross varies depending on whom you ask.

For example, for Roman Catholics, the Holy Cross represents the crucifixion of Jesus Christ and is a central symbol of their faith. They focus on the cross with the figure of Jesus on it to constantly remind themselves of his redemption for humanity's sins. While Evangelical Christians may also focus on the empty cross as an important symbolic representation of Jesus' victory over death and sin, alongside the hope and new life that believers have through him.

Now, if we dare to venture even deeper down the rabbit hole, and go far beyond the Christian cross, we will discover that there are so many other types of crosses! For example, there's the Inverted Cross, Psychic Cross, Orthodox Cross, the Caravaca Cross, and the Ankh, just to name a few.

Perhaps not unsurprisingly, the majority of the crosses I came across in collections were the Holy Cross, however, I did manage to find some examples of others. I hope you enjoy this article as much as I did writing it. Here you go:

• Dilara Findikoglu: Anhk ☥

Dilara’s inspiration for her Fall 2017 collection was said to be the "New World Order," representing the destruction of the old world and the creation of a new one. The entire collection is filled with Victorian silhouettes and significant "occult symbolism," which is reminiscent of Freemasonry in terms of aesthetics.

In this case, we will be focusing on the ankh, featured prominently in one of the looks. The ankh is a well-known symbol that originated in Ancient Egypt (Note: Freemasonry does borrow symbolism from Ancient Egypt). It is considered to be the first and original cross, with other crosses derived from it. (2) It is also known as the "key of life," which is an intriguing point to consider in relation to the "destruction of an old world but creation of the new" aspect of this collection.

• Yang Li x Genesis Breyer P-Orridge: Psychic Cross 丰

Yang Li integrates his musical influences into his unique artistic approach to fashion, making the collaboration with the infamous Genesis Breyer P-orridge a perfect fit.

Apart from music, Genesis Breyer P-Orridge was well known for their involvement in occult and esoteric practices, most notably their interest in chaos magick and the development of the concept of "pandrogeny", a philosophical and artistic exploration of gender as a fluid and mutable concept.

Yang's took deep inspiration from Gen's logos and slogans. The iconic Psychick Cross symbol took a prominent role in the collaboration, representing their shared vision.

Yang took deep inspiration from Gen's logos and slogans. The iconic Psychick Cross symbol took a prominent role in the collaboration, representing their shared vision.

link in proportions ov 2 and 3. (1)

The desired ratio of the cross is intended to be 2 to 3, meaning that if the vertical line measures 3 inches in length, the two larger intersecting lines at the top and bottom should each measure 2 inches, while the smaller intersecting line in the center should measure two-thirds of 2 inches. Why is 23 such an important number? Well, that's a different conversation for a different article in the future.

• Schiaparelli: Holy Cross ✟

The heavens [is] a place to escape from the chaos of our planet (6)

- Daniel Roseberry, Creative Director of the brand

Most articles mentioned that this show has sci-fi and surrealistic inspirations. However, when I came across the quote above in his show notes, I knew this was the missing piece of the puzzle.

The overall collection exudes a regal and heavenly vibe, with a touch of divinity. I am particularly drawn in by the silhouette, which I think is just so precious! It's like a halo on top, and with those cylinder-like arm accents that look almost like wings, ready to whisk you away to the heavens.

While it's uncertain if Daniel incorporated any of his personal religious beliefs into the collection, its striking beauty remains undeniable, as always.

• Vivienne Westwood: Inverted Cross 𐕣

Well, before we delve into the history of the inverted cross, let's address the elephant in the room. Based on my research, I don't believe Vivienne intended to glamorize the swastika symbol at all. When asked if she regretted having the swastika on the Destroy shirt, Vivienne responded, quite clearly

No, I don't, because we were just saying to the older generation, 'We don't accept your values or your taboos, and you're all fascists. (5)

Additionally, considering that she was a part of the punk movement, it is plausible to view it as a fashion statement aimed at condemning fascism.

The inverted cross has received a negative connotation, in part due to its portrayal in horror movies such as The Conjuring, Rosemary's Baby, The Devil Inside, and The Amityville Horror, where it has been depicted as something evil.

However, long before these movies graced the theaters, the symbol was widely known as the Cross of Saint Peter or the Petrine Cross. In a true display of Catholic guilt, Saint Peter is said to have felt unworthy to be crucified in the same manner as Jesus, so he requested to be crucified upside down. Interestingly, the Petrine Cross is also associated with the papacy, reflecting the Catholic belief that the pope is the successor of Peter as the bishop of Rome. This is why you may see the Pope sitting on a throne with an upside-down cross carved into it. (5)

Bonus: Two more High Fashion Moments with Cross Motifs

• Thom Browne: Upright and Inverted Crosses

Fun detail: I also noticed an inverted cross on the door of the presentation venue, and to the best of my knowledge, the crosses were added for decorative purposes.

• Mowalola: Holy Cross

  It was quite interesting that the collection was filled with various cross motifs, ranging from masks to full-cover robes, considering that she dubbed it "Burglarwear". (7)

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To sum up, the use of religious crosses in fashion and design often carries significant symbolism and cultural references. From the ancient Egyptian ankh to the Christian cross, these symbols have been used throughout history to represent various beliefs, ideologies, and concepts.

Whether it's borrowing from Freemasonry, exploring occult symbolism, or referencing historical eras, crosses remain powerful and meaningful icons that will continue to captivate and inspire fashion designers. The use of crosses in fashion serves as a reminder of the enduring influence of religious symbolism in our contemporary world.

丰 Thank you to my mentors and muse 丰

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Sources

1. Breyer P-Orridge, G. (2009). Psychic Bible. Feral House.

2. National Park Service. (n.d.). Ankh: Symbol of life [Webpage]. Retrieved from https://www.nps.gov/afbg/learn/historyculture/ankh.htm#:~:text=Symbol of Life-,NPS,--or original--cross

3. The Bite Magazine. (2017, March 3). Dilara Findikoglu AW17. The Bite Magazine. Retrieved from https://www.thebitemag.com/2017/03/03/dilara-findikoglu-aw17/

4. Grossman, L. (2009, February 12). The Art of Video Games: From Pac-Man to Mass Effect. TIME. Retrieved from https://content.time.com/time/arts/article/0,8599,1871537,00.html

5. Cossetta, Erin. (2018). Here's What an Upside-Down Cross Really Means. Thought Catalog. https://thoughtcatalog.com/erin-cossetta/2018/04/heres-what-an-upside-down-cross-really-means/#:~:text=Pop culture has reinforced this,as something of evil origin.

6. Refinery29. (2022, January 11). Schiaparelli's Couture Collection Is An Ode To Surrealist Art. Refinery29. https://www.refinery29.com/en-us/2022/01/10844367/schiaparelli-couture-spring-2022

7. Mowalola's SS23: The Criminal Return to the Runway. (2023, April 13). Yahoo! Entertainment. https://www.yahoo.com/entertainment/mowalolas-ss23-criminal-return-runway-103257499.html?guccounter=1&guce_referrer=aHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuYmluZy5jb20v&guce_referrer_sig=AQAAAHwY6l08RC6BWgfpkUpFcHjUrpXyUN5b7CiO7VBAOivNXO-33XEd1NPXiYaN0rrTKw5rf5QD1SYb8K8UfL4BHZSM6kIIMhg06r6QxP_fcad3CGJDrBfwwXF6m2AjXBumP2Jz_x-OqLNCbfD2IRVKbXE2kOF4GLfk5OqoQLebCgh9